Garage floor concrete in Seymour IN - a slab built for how you use the garage
Cracked, sinking or flaking garage floor? We pour a new slab with the base, thickness and finish matched to how you'll use the space.
- Fully licensed and insured.
- Free quotes on site.
- We reply within 1 business day.
What does a new garage floor involve, from tear-out to curing?
Garage floor concrete is a new slab poured over a dug-out, packed base, then kept from drying out while it cures so it gains full strength. Seymour Concrete pours garage floors in Seymour, IN, and the job often comes with breaking out the old floor, setting the slope so water runs out the door, and tying the new floor into the driveway apron.
Most people call us because the old floor has cracked, dropped at the door or started flaking, or because they're building a garage and want the floor right the first time. If the old slab has to come out in pieces, concrete cutting is usually where we start. The price moves with the size of the floor, whether the old slab comes out, how much digging and packing the base needs, how thick the slab is, and extras like steel, a moisture barrier or a smoother finish. The schedule turns on the weather, the tear-out and the curing wait before you can use the garage again. My written estimate lays out what's included, so you can see what you're paying for line by line.
How do you know your garage floor needs replacing?
Cracks that keep growing
A hairline crack is normal, but a crack that widens, lifts on one side or keeps sprouting branches usually means the ground under it has moved. Every winter you wait, water and salt work deeper into it, and the break gets bigger and harder to patch.
Sinking near the door
When the floor drops at the garage door, the dirt under it was probably never packed, or water has been washing it out. Puddles then sit there or run back toward the house, and the low spot only gets lower.
Flaking, dusty surface
If the top peels off in flakes or leaves gray dust on your shoes, the surface is wearing away, often from a weak top or slush sitting on it. Once the top goes, the rough concrete underneath wears faster and is hard to keep clean.
Work that often goes with it
Decorative concrete
If plain gray isn't what you want, a colored or patterned floor or a dressed-up apron can make the garage feel like part of the house.
Concrete retaining walls
When the garage is cut into a slope, a wall beside it holds the dirt back and keeps mud and runoff off the new floor.
How we build a garage floor concrete slab
I start by asking how you'll use the garage, because a workshop, a lift or a plan to coat or heat it changes what goes under and into the slab. The finish you want shapes the mix, so we settle that before the order goes in. Then we break out the old floor if there is one, dig down to firm ground and pack the subgrade, the dirt and stone the slab sits on, and set the forms so the floor falls gently toward the door and away from the house. Where the slab needs steel, we set the rebar or mesh on small supports called chairs, so it stays inside the concrete holding cracks tight instead of getting stepped down into the dirt. We pour early in the day to stay ahead of the heat, finish the top, and cut control joints, shallow grooves that give the slab a straight line to crack along where we chose. Then we keep the surface covered so it doesn't dry out during the first few days of curing. If the budget gets tight, I'd rather you skip the fancier finish than the base work, because nobody sees the base on pour day and it's the part that decides whether the floor is still flat a few winters from now.
Some garage jobs run into other work. If you'd like color or a pattern on the floor or the apron, that's decorative concrete, and it's easier to plan before the pour than after. If the garage sits into a hill and the dirt beside the drive keeps sliding toward the slab, concrete retaining walls hold it back so it stays off the new floor.
Parking and storage
This suits a garage that holds a car or two, bikes and the mower, with nothing heavy sitting in one spot for long. We build a plain, solid slab and give it a broom finish, a lightly brushed texture that keeps tires and boots from slipping.
Workshop, lift or finished garage
This suits you if you're adding a car lift, heavy tools, a coating or heat, because those change the thickness, the steel and what goes under the slab. We plan them in at the estimate, since some of them can't be added once the concrete is down.
Get a written estimate for your new garage floor
Send the form and we'll reply within one business day to set a time for me to come look. The visit and estimate are free, no obligation, and calling (812) 271-8146 works too.
Call (812) 271-8146Why Seymour homeowners call Seymour Concrete for garage floors
I write every estimate myself
I come out to look at your garage and write the estimate, and I'm on site with our crew of experienced finishers while the work gets done. The person who told you what goes under your slab is the one standing there when it goes in.
In business since 2017
I started on concrete crews in high school summers and kept at it until I could run a pour on my own, then opened this business in 2017. Driveways, walks and garage floors are the careful flatwork we're known for.
Licensed, insured, quotes you can compare
We're fully licensed and insured. When you compare quotes from anyone, ask what slab thickness is included and whether it's measured above the packed base, and whether a thickened edge, steel and a vapor barrier are in the price.
Based in Seymour, working nearby
We're based in Seymour and work across the cities around it, including Columbus, North Vernon, Scottsburg and Salem. When a garage is the lowest level of a building, Jackson County's zoning rules count the top of the garage floor as the building's lowest floor, so I ask about that before we set the height of the slab.
On a garage floor, the base and the steel matter more than anything you'll see on top, so tell us about your garage and I'll come walk it with you.
What happens after you call about a garage floor?
Call and tell me about it
When you call, I ask a few questions about the garage, what you use it for and whether the old floor is coming out. Then we set a time for me to come look at it with you.
Walk the garage together
I walk the site with you, check where the water runs and talk through thickness, steel, a moisture barrier and the finish. You get a written estimate that says what's included, so you know what you're paying for before we start.
Form, pour and finish
Once you say go, I'm on site with the crew from setting the forms to the last pass of the trowel. If rain or heat threatens the pour, I'd rather move the date than rush it.
Walk the finished floor
We walk the finished job together before we leave. I'll tell you when it's ready for feet and for the car, and how to treat it through its first winter.
Common questions
How thick should a garage floor slab be in Seymour?
Many light home garage slabs start around 4 inches thick, and heavier use can push the design to 5 or 6 inches. A workshop, a lift or heavier vehicles may also call for steel and a stronger base, so the thickness on your estimate should match your plans for the space.
What is the best finish for a garage floor that freezes and thaws?
For freeze-thaw climates, one guide pairs a broom or float finish with more air in the mix, and a smooth troweled finish with less. Hard troweling a mix full of air makes the top delaminate, which means it peels apart, and that's why we pick the finish before ordering the concrete.
Does a new garage floor need a vapor barrier underneath?
A vapor barrier, a moisture barrier laid under the slab, is worth having if the floor will get an epoxy or polyaspartic coating. A bare broom-finished floor in an unheated garage doesn't need one, so your plans to coat or heat the space decide it.
How do I take care of a new concrete garage floor in its first winter?
Use clean sand for traction instead of deicing salt, which is what one Canadian concrete trade group advises, because even salt dripping off your car may cause severe scaling, flaking of the top, on a newly poured garage slab. The same group advises sealing young concrete with a commercial sealer made for slabs on the ground once it's reasonably dry, and calls late summer, after at least a month of drying past curing, the ideal time.
How much does a new concrete garage floor cost in Seymour, IN?
Your price comes down to the size of the floor, whether the old slab has to be broken out, how much base work the ground needs, and the thickness, steel, barrier and finish your plans call for. A floor built for a lift or a coating usually costs more than one for parking, and the written estimate lists each of those pieces so you can see where the money goes.
How do I keep a new garage floor from cracking?
Most concrete gets some shrinkage cracks, and the base, steel and joints described above keep them small and put them where we chose. Keeping puddles and slush swept out helps too, since water or salt water left standing on concrete causes scaling, and every concrete surface will wear and scale some over its life, so a little wear years from now is normal.
Plan your new garage floor with us
Call (812) 271-8146 or use the form, and have any plans for a workshop, lift, coating or heat in mind, so your first estimate already matches the floor you need.